Another fascinating day today with Luca. Pace is picking up and he is getting much stricter with his little team, putting deadlines on their particular parts of the project and telling them to ‘work while you talk’!! Poor Robin and Gemma even had homework last night!!! Robin took the bodice home with him and stitched the pieces together, whilst Gemma took the skirt home to stitch the waistband to the gathers at the top.
When I arrived after lunch, Robin was carefully creating the channels in the bodice to hold the synthetic whalebones (7 in total), in the darts at the front and a couple at the back. Gemma was working on the hem of the skirt with Luca, interlining it with a very light cotton. Luca had cut out the ‘bertha’, an interesting name for the front of the bodice, and had acquired two more merry helpers, named Ann Gill and Alison James to sew the sleeves. It turns out that the two new helpers were on the same course as Robin and Gemma, Costume Construction for Stage and Screen at Cleveland College of Art & Design.
However, one of the most exciting revelations of the day has to be the discovery of the identity of a beautiful purple bodice which the Museum has had in storage. Luca had got two bodices out of storage, one black and one purple to show Robin the detailing on the seams. And out of curiosity he tried the purple bodice on the mannequin which he has created to exactly match Joséphine’s body measurements. It fitted like a glove! Right around the waist, and at the back it fitted exactly so Luca believes it must have been Joséphine’s. The purple material is beautiful and it has gorgeous lace around the neck so it is very exciting to have identified the original wearer!
Anyway, I digress….there are only two days left of this amazing project and the opportunity to see Luca live. Saabik has been meticulously filming all the crucial parts, ably assisted by Alice, sound technician extraordinaire, so visitors will have the chance to see the creation of the dress in the Fashion & Textiles Gallery for years to come. However, there’s nothing like listening to Luca and his melodic Italian accent in person, and feeling the buzz of activity as the team literally piece together history and the dress.
Thursday 5 July
What a day! After torrential storms outside the Museum, creating yet another flooded Bowling Green and, what I hear from reports after the event, rivers running down the Bank in Barney and copious shops flooded in seconds, it seems like Luca had a relatively ‘storm-free’ day!! I arrived at 10 o’clock to be slightly reprimanded on asking the dreaded question ‘will you be finished on time!’
With time becoming very precious, Gemma was still stitching the interlining of the hem, Robin was working on gathering the bertha, for embellishing the front of the bodice and Luca was starting to add the piping to the bodice, the skirt was eventually finished, with the bodice which had numerous fittings onto the mannequin to check the measurements.
Gemma added hooks and eyes to the back of the bodice (another mild telling off for me when I questioned whether they had hooks and eyes in the 19th century!!) Of course, Luca explained that all the techniques he is using to re-create Joséphine’s dress are absolutely authentic, so they did have hooks and eyes, in the beginning of the 19th century made predominently of brass and later of steel, but a tarnished steel, not stainless steel as today.
So, with my lesson on historical hooks and eyes over, I popped into the Jubilee Room to listen to a truly inspirational talk by Robert Swan, polar explorer, as part of our Our Sporting Life exhibition, totally unrelated to Luca and the Costumier, but by now, I am sure you realise, I am easily distracted by all of the fantastic offerings at The Bowes Museum!
The very talented Saabik and Alice were yet again on hand, all day to film the momentous moments of the project. With hard-drives crammed full of footage and their obvious emotional involvement in the creation of a historical dress as part of the enjoyment of visitors to The Museum in the future, their role in the project has been as important as that of Robin and Gemma, who have also toiled tirelessly to stitch to Luca’s exacting standards.
So, if anyone is still craving seeing the action in person, there is, I’m afraid only one day to go…. tomorrow from 10 – 5.
On a sentimental note, I hope John and Joséphine will be impressed by the amount of effort which has gone into re-creating the dress worn by Joséphine in our portrait. It, I am sure, will be a truly welcome addition to our collection for years to come.
Saturday 7 July
So the project is complete! Have just spoken to Luca Costigliolo who is on the train heading to Manchester Airport. He is exhausted but elated about the completion of an intense two week project to re-create Joséphine Bowes’ ballgown using historical techniques.
Yesterday morning, Luca was still working on the bertha, doing zig zag running stitches to gather it up in the haphazard style as seen in the portrait. Robin had created all the eyelets on the back of the bodice ready for the laces. Gemma was completing the sleeves and everyone seemed a little tense about how much there still was to do to complete the dress by the end of the day.
When I left at 1.30pm the mood had lightened, and the team were joking and enjoying the final few hours of what has been an incredible experience, for Luca who has worked with the Museum before in mounting the costumes in the Fashion & Textile Gallery, for Robin and Gemma who have learnt so much from an exquisite teacher, Luca, for Saabik and Alice who have gained some fantastic new contacts, publicity of their work and some great footage of the project from start to finish.
The team finished late last night at about 9.30pm, whilst Inter-Opera were in the full throes of their concert in the Picture Galleries next door to Luca’s workshop (The Music Room). Luca said it was like a comedy sketch at times, as Saabik was trying to film him adding the final flourishes to the dress and the music kept pounding through the walls of the Museum!
As the mannequin was dressed for the last time, with the crinoline made last week, then the petticoat, the skirt, the beautiful bodice, completed with the bertha and two strings of freshwater pearls stiched round the neck and finished with a brooch in the centre, Luca placed Josépine’s belt around the waist. One millimetre either way in the measurements of the dress would have meant that either it would be too slack or not fit over the top of the layers of silk. It fitted perfectly!
Luca then carried the completed dress downstairs to the room where it will be on display amongst John and Joséphine’s own furniture, next to the portrait of Joséphine wearing her original dress. Visitors will be able to see it there for the Summer (apart from the 1st week in August when the mannequin will be trimmed down at the neck) until it is eventually moved into the Fashion & Textiles Gallery.
So as Luca flies off to his next project, and the team disperses with happy memories of the last two weeks, a piece of history has been re-created for posterity and will remain in The Bowes Museum for many to enjoy for years to come.
To watch the films made by Saabik Akhthar & Alice Brown, you can click on the following links to Youtube: